Kline Restaurant Review: Brutalist Food in a Bare-Boned Space
At Kline, less is more—especially when it comes to ingredients, plating, and portion sizes. Located in a minimalist space inspired by brutalist architecture and abstract expressionism, this trendy Brussels restaurant turns fine dining into an artistic experience where every bite is deliberate, and every dish is designed to surprise.The brainchild of chefs Katrien, Dom, and Nico, Kline’s culinary style is what they call “brutalist gastronomy”—a stripped-back approach to cooking that prioritizes purity of flavor and seasonal ingredients over frills and flourishes.
What’s Good
Don’t be discouraged by the modest lettuce leaf with linseed oil that starts your journey. It sets the tone for what’s to come: dishes that are visually raw, texturally intriguing, and built around a tight set of bold ingredients.Kline operates on a plate-sharing model, encouraging diners to try at least three dishes per person. The menu changes every two to three weeks, ensuring freshness and a focus on what’s in season. The only constant is the signature beet chutney—a tart, sweet, earthy staple beloved by regulars.
What’s Not
If you show up hungry, be warned: Kline’s minimalist portions are unlikely to fill you up. And for those who love scanning endless menu options, Kline might disappoint. The tightly curated selection features just five starters, two meat mains, two fish dishes, and three desserts.Also, prepare for sticker shock. The €6 charge per person for tap water might be the most brutalist element of all.
Atmosphere
The dining room mirrors the food—bare concrete walls, industrial finishes, and a fully open kitchen fill the space with scents and sound. It’s not cozy or romantic, but that’s intentional. The focus is on pure sensation—taste, texture, scent—and not distractions.Expect to dine alongside Flemish hipsters with a taste for concept dining and conversation-starting plates.
The Bill
Unless you’re earning an EU civil servant salary, brace yourself: A modest dinner for two without dessert runs close to €100, and pushing the boat out with dessert and a bottle of wine could land you around €180.Fun Fact
The restaurant’s name pays homage to Franz Kline, the American painter known for his bold, abstract black brushstrokes that helped define mid-century modern art. His unapologetic, minimal compositions inspired Kline’s aesthetic and culinary ethos.Insider Tip
Dining runs in two European-style shifts: Nordic shift: 6:00 p.m. to 8:15 p.m. Southern shift: 8:45 p.m. to 11:00 p.m. Plan accordingly—especially if you're booking on a weekend.Final Verdict: Kline is more than a restaurant—it's an edible expression of brutalism and minimalism. For adventurous diners who crave thoughtful cooking and a conceptual edge, it's worth the price of admission. But if you’re after a hearty meal or menu variety, look elsewhere.
